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Dobre Dan (Good day),                  17 April 2004

War sometimes changes people in less than obvious ways.  Judging from what I see of the people of Bosnia and Herzegovina, I'd say they are trying to make up for lost time, seeking to enjoy every moment and living their lives to the fullest.  Perhaps they are giving less thought to tomorrow and are more deeply engaged in living in the now.

The streets of Sarajevo are filled with people who seem simply to be enjoying life.  Street scenes differ much from what I've seen in America.  Americans seem to be much more isolated from each other, spending much of their day inside their private automobiles, inside their large fenced-in suburban yards on winding streets that lack sidewalks, and sitting in front of their televisions disengaged from conversations.  The people of Bosnia Herzegovina seem much more active socializers.    People are out strolling wide pedestrian-only streets in the springtime sunshine, socializing with large groups of friends or family, and enjoying desserts, coffee and other libations at the countless street-side cafes.  These are not just features of cosmopolitan Sarajevo, but also of smaller towns I visited around the country, each of which seem to be much more vibrant, lively places than average American towns.  People here seem to be more actively involved with each other.

Leijla (pronounced Layla), now 22, was 11 at the start of the war.  She and her family spent the better part of four years without electricity, heat and running water.  Her family had to be careful to avoid getting shot by snipers whenever they attempted to go for supplies at nearby shops.  They made their own candles from oil and water, and bundled themselves in every blanket and article of clothing to stay warm.  Her family, like others, might risk going by car at night with the headlights turned off and head into the surrounding hills to cut wood from so that they could cook and perhaps add warmth to a room.  The tree line where the forests were cut by Sarajevans is still visible today.  Several years of Leijla's schooling were conducted in her apartment building, one of many buildings that are still visibly riddled with bullet holes.

Leijla is now the translator for Danielius, my host, who used to work with me in Washington and is here from his native Lithuania to work for a development organization sponsored by the United Nations.

I'm heading home Monday.

Ciao,

Deano

Here are some photos:

Sarajevo from the surrounding hills:
http://deanoman.com/photos/eur04/bosnia/DSCI0072_2.JPG

Pre-War Sign of Happier Times, the 1984 Winter Olympics, with bullet holes
http://deanoman.com/photos/eur04/bosnia/DSCI0050_2.JPG

Shell of the damaged parliament building, finally ready for redevelopment
http://deanoman.com/photos/eur04/bosnia/DSCI0048_2.JPG

Sarajevo's Turkish Quarter
http://deanoman.com/photos/eur04/bosnia/DSCI0035_2.JPG

Near site of the start of World War I, where the Archduke of Austria was assassinated
http://deanoman.com/photos/eur04/bosnia/DSCI0021_2.JPG

Team chess
http://deanoman.com/photos/eur04/bosnia/DSCI0039_2.JPG

Leijla, Dean and Danielius
http://deanoman.com/photos/eur04/bosnia/DSCI0064_2.JPG

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