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World Tour II Postcards, Page 18:  Excerpts from postcards sent in LATE JUNE, 1996
 

Malawi

 

 

Cape McClear, Malawi, 16 June 1996 Moni (Chichewa “Hello”)!Malawi has long received positive reviews from backpacking travelers, so I had been looking forward to coming here.  “The warm heart of Africa” hype seems to be true, as the people here make one feel quite welcome.  Pehaps it’s partly because this is just about the only remaining country on the planet to be untouched by television, so people still have a need to fill time conversing with anyone who comes along.  They’re supposed to have their first channel later this year, but almost no one can afford a television.

One thing I’m sad to see happen in much of the world is the loss of cultural diversity.  Wherever I go, I see us becoming increasingly alike … or more correctly, more like us … listening to our music, watching our movies, adopting our habits and attitudes; and much of the culture that we are exporting is the worst of America … our selfishness where people are customarily more giving, our cynicism where people are better spirited and idealistic, our violence where such methods hadn’t occurred to anybody.  Someday, everybody will watch CNN and think more or less alike.  As we all start speaking the same lingo worldwide over the internet, culture becomes increasingly something that many will consider as quaint and from the past.

In some ways, the loss of ethnic diversity may be as hazardous for us as the loss of species diversity.  As we become more homogenous, our collective imagination and inventiveness becomes more sterile and less dynamic.  As a traveler, cultural totalitarianism above all else is boring.

Malawi, 20 June 1996 -- Moni (Chichewa “Hello”)!I’m eating vegetable curry and watching a group of hippos a stone’s throw away as they splash around in the Shire River.  Far more deaths and injuries have occurred due to attacks by hippos than any other African animal, usually when a hippo mistakes a canoe or small boat for a sandwich.

A local woman passing me on the path greeted me with “Hello.  Good morning!  I love you!  I want you to marry my daughter.”  It was clear that she didn’t know much more English than that, but when she repeated the “daughter” part, I asked her how old was her daughter, who wasn’t there to speak for herself.  “Sixteen,” she said and it didn’t seem to concern her that I was probably older than her daughter’s mother.

Luz Huntington was an intern at Zero Population Growth when I met her three years ago in Washington, DC.  These days, she’s a Peace Corp volunteer teaching biology and science here in Malawi.  I spent a couple days visiting her and her friends from other development aid organizations.  They all seem to love Malawi and the friends they’ve made here, and they believe that the experience has been very worthwhile for them; but it’s amazing how cynical they’ve all become about aid organizations (not necessarily the ones who whom they work) and how pessimistic they are about the world (particularly the developing world) ever resolving its problems.

These aid workers see things only as getting worse, and some are beginning to believe that we may be doing more harm than good by providing any aid at all to developing countries.  The incentives we create, they say, don’t encourage the poor nations to try to improve their own lot; and very little of the aid money actually reaches the intended purposes.  Much of it ends up in the pockets of local officials, profiteers, or the aid workers themselves.  One person wondered how folks he met from World Vision could ever understand the local people when they insist upon staying in hotel rooms for $130 a night (almost an average Malawian’s yearly income).  Nobody he knew from USAID had ever gotten out of their offices in the “new” modern part of the capital city, used crowded, uncomfortable local transport instead of their own vehicles or eaten at local food stalls where Malawians could sometimes afford to eat. 

The many clothes that have been donated from Europe and America have been so plentiful that it has put their local clothes makers out of business.  Handmade products often can’t compete and consequently, people find themselves unemployed.  Kindness from overseas often has negative consequences.

Malawi supposedly has the world’s highest HIV infection rate.  The numbers I’ve been hearing have been too high to be believable.  Anywhere from 20% to 40% of the sexually active population is infected.  One in three is the most often quoted estimate.  Few live long enough to develop full-blown AIDS.  Most die from decreased immunity to tuberculosis, malaria or other infectious diseases.  Not many have gray hair because they don’t live that long.  Life expectancy is somewhere in the 40s.  There’s also a brain drain because those who are most often infected are middle class, better educated urban dwellers.  When they get sick, they often return to the villages and countryside from which they came in order to die in relative obscurity.

I visited a family planning clinic called “Man to Man”, which as the name suggests focuses upon the male side of the reproduction equation.  Until recently, unfortunately, this angle has been largely ignored by aid organizations.  Men have been far more resistant to the idea of limiting the number of their children.  It’s a symbol of their manliness to have many children, and if their wives use the pill, they worry that their wives may feel free to be more promiscuous with other men.  Even though there’s no longer a need for more children to do farm work (since their families no longer own a farm, and there’s an oversupply of farm laborers anyway), old habits die hard.  Even with the astronomical HIV infection rate, population continues to grow rapidly here, because many families have eight or ten children.

Malawi, 20 June 1996 -- Moni (Chichewa “Hello”)! – The beaches of Lake Malawi, beautiful as the beaches of Rio, but the lake has scattered pockets of bilharzias, a tropical disease that’s fairly curable if caught early, but with which I’d just as soon not bother.  So, I’m avoiding the swimming, snorkeling and cheap scuba courses that other water appears extremely tempting and the tropical fish are rare and colorful to observe. 

Cape McClear is a small traditional African village with homes of mud and straw and bare-footed, bloated-bellied children.  It’s also a place where travelers congregate for rest and relaxation on Lake Malawi.  I say travelers rather than tourists since, lacking electricity, warm showers and other modern facilities, most tourists wouldn’t feel very comfortable.  For the traveler though, it’s a great place to kick up, relax and exchange tales of the African misadventures.

I’m staying in a room that costs me $1.00 a night, and tonight one of the locals is preparing several of us a huge meal of tasty Chomba fish over a fire on the beach for about $2.00. 

I nearly started a small riot yesterday when I took a photo of a half dozen women who were walking in formation carrying large loads of firewood on their heads.  They may have big muscles, but it’s pretty difficult for them to put wood down to come and punch me out.

Zambia, 27 June 1996Muli bwangi (Chichewan “Good morning”)!  I’m back to where postcards cannot be found, this time in northeastern Zambia.  It’s been a rough and tumble three days over some of the world’s most pot-holed, gullied, back-breaking roads.  Some of it was traversed from southern Malawi in overcrowded, rattling school busses, while other parts could only be crossed by Land Rover.  Ours had bald tires with the threads showing, had to be push-started and replenished with water in the radiator every 10 minutes, and it carried a load of 18 people in space designed at most for half that number.  Six hours on dusty, bouncy roads with our bodies exposed to the hot sun and cramped to the point of constrained blood circulation was quite an endurance test – but this is Africa.

Still, I will not agree to ride in some vehicles.  I’ve learned my lesson from prior experiences.  One flat bed truck was so dangerously overloaded with people today that even though they offered me -- the foreigner -- a comfortable seat inside the front cab at twice the price, my conscience for the others and concern for the safety of us all would not permit me to take the ride.  People on the back were crushing others underneath and they could easily be bounced off onto a bumpy road.  My failure to take that ride almost certainly means that I’ll miss the weekly Lake Tanganyika ferry, causing me a major reroute of plans – but then again, ferries suffer from dangerous overcrowding here too (as the recent tragedy on Lake Victoria demonstrated).   You would not believe the discomfort and danger that people are willing to tolerate here in order to secure a ride for them selves.  I’ve seen chaos, and it’s not a pretty sight.  I couldn’t even bring myself to photograph it.  Some photojournalist I’d make!

Zambia in the 1980s was notorious among travelers for having the most harassing officials of any African nation.  Tourists, including ones I met, were often jailed for no legitimate reason.  The police have cleaned up their act entirely since then, and these days they could hardly be more pleasant and courteous.  They seem to be trying to live down their previous reputation.  Someone’s been giving them charm lessons.

Meanwhile, Zambia has become more dangerous in terms of criminality.  Unemployment has skyrocketed.  Whereas Malawi was always very poor and relatively free of crime, Zambia has dropped a couple notches economically, and people have been more willing to use crime to cut their losses.  People also have access to guns and television violence here, both of which are absent in Malawi.  Locals, concerned for my safety, have taken me under their wings.  I don’t plan to hang out here for long.

A five-foot-long monitor lizard was scurrying across the highway in Malawi, and our driver, to be cute, swerved to try to run over it.  Luckily, the critter escaped death – narrowly.

I’ve had to get used to being stared at again – something I remember well from my previous African trip.  I can’t for a moment pick my nose without someone watching; and it’s impossible to be clandestine about taking a photograph – everybody’s an eye open to make sure I don’t photograph them, especially the women.  It seems contradictory that the women dress in such bright colorful clothes, yet they don’t want to be captured on film.

Nobody stares more than the children of rural Africa.  At times, I’ve felt like the pied piper, as a few children eventually became a few dozen children following me.  They’re willing to follow and stare for miles if I walk that far.  Their gazes amaze me for how long they can hold them.  What’s so fascinating about me?

In Malawi, I visited SERVAS host Christopher Khwimani.  Unlike most SERVAS hosts who are typically middle to upper middle class, Christopher lives with his many relatives at subsistence level in a traditional African village.  He is a primary school teacher who hasn’t been paid for three months.  Some teachers have gone on strike, and schools have closed.

According to the village chief (an inherited position), I was the first muzungu (white person) to visit the village that he could remember – and he has a memory at least back to 1913 when the village began.  Other muzungus, mostly missionaries have driven past cars, but nobody actually stops.

The concept of “family” is quite different in the local language.  Aunts and uncles are also referred to as mothers and fathers.  Cousins are referred to as brothers and sisters.  Almost everybody in the village is related in some way or another.  The village of Karimbera, which is also the name of the village chief, has a little over 300 people in it, over half of which are probably under the age of 12.  Cousins often marry each other, and other forms of interbreeding also occur.

Many of the children appear to be suffering from malnutrition.  Food is plentiful, at least in times of no drought – like now; but the staple diet of nsima (corn mush) does not provide adequate nutrition for children, and bloated bellies are a common sight.  They have beans, rice, squash and some meat, mostly goat, but 80% of their calories seem to come from some form of corn mush, prepared either like mashed potatoes, sweetened breakfast porridge, or as a thick beverage.

They pulled out a mattress for me, but they generally sleep on the floor on reed mats.  Huge supposedly harmless spiders climbing their walls were a little unnerving, but I slept well.

The women, no matter the age, got on their knees when they shook the hands of men.  It felt awkward to me to watch them work so hard while I sat idle with the men drinking homemade corn alcohol.

In the evening, we gathered in their home of mud brick and thatched roof, and sat by one kerosene lamp with about 15 family members and ate dinner, with Christopher and me on chairs and everyone else on the floor.  They asked me questions about life in America.

For bathing, they would heat hot water for me over a wood fire, and put it in a bucket in a circular hut where I could sponge bathe.  The toilet was another circular hut where I accidentally dropped my camera case down a small hole in the ground.

On the Ferry M.V. Liemba, Lake Tanganyika, 29 June 1966 – The race to catch this ferry for the last four days has been an incredible story of fits and starts.  I could have simply spent another week doing things in Malawi and Zambia as I waited for the next one, but that would have allowed less time for other things I hope to do later.  The ferry leaves once each week on Fridays at 4:00 pm, and if it hadn’t been an hour late, I would have missed it.  Actually, countless little hurdles of my own nearly caused me to miss it – malfunctioning busses, incredibly slow workers in a bank, a near sideswiping of two Land Rovers, you name it.  For four days, typically African things kept happening, and more than once, I’d nearly given up all hope of catching the ferry.  Missing it probably would have caused me to go a completely different route missing Lake Tanganyika and the chimpanzees of Gombe National Park.  The chimpanzees were one of my major goals of this African trip, and I didn’t want to miss them.

In the end, instead of catching the ferry in Zambia as I had planned, I had to race to catch it when it arrived at the first port in Tanzania.  It was already too late to catch it in Zambia.  After luckily catching the last seat on a departing bus, finding the only Land Rover heading to the remote Tanzanian port that day, and then running for two kilometers down a path assisted by a local who knew the way through the woods to the beach, we managed to just catch one of the last canoes that were carrying passengers to the ferry, already preparing to leave the bay.  Five minutes more would have meant failure and backtracking over rough roads for many miles in uncomfortable transport.

The cabins on the ferry are comfortable, but the decks are overcrowded with people.  Someday, this ferry ride is bound to end in tragedy just like the one on Lake Victoria.  We’re overloaded already with more stops and more people to board before our arrival in Kigoma, Tanzania.

The lake is beautiful.  The west side is Zaire.  I had imagined the area as forested, but like most of Africa, the vegetation is scrub bushes that grow well in semi arid climates.  I’ve only been rained on once in the 10 weeks since I arrived in Africa.  Actually, through 9 months of travel, rain has rarely been a factor (for cramping my style), perhaps on no more than 10 days total.

Take care,

Peace and love,

Deano

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